Palmyra Reflections: Craig Thomas

The step from dock to deck when heading offshore is always a long one.  In the past I’ve taken the trappings of modern technology with me GPS, diesel engine, compass, marine toilet, a deck overhead…

This time was different. After climbing aboard the Polynesian voyaging canoe Hōkūle‘a, I put my wristwatch in a Tupperware container along with eleven other watches from crew mates. For the next 950 miles we would be powered by wind, guided by sun, stars and waves. All the while we were immersed (sometimes literally) in our surroundings.  At the end of the voyage, manu‐o‐kū (fairy terns) and noio (noddies) guided us by flying away from land in the morning and back at night.  Melon headed whales and bottlenose dolphins escorted us the last few miles.

What a landfall it was.  Palmyra is swarming with life. In the air white tailed tropic birds perform a mating ballet, frigate birds harass booby birds in hope of stealing a meal and clouds of chattering sooty terns tend their chicks. On land, crabs cover the ground. Coconut crabs use their huge pincers to eat coconuts, hermit crabs clad in shells, bottles and plastic cups scuffle for scraps. Black tip reef sharks patrol the lagoon, often with their dorsal fins exposed and suntanned backs awash.

The experience was magic. The canoe, modeled after traditional Polynesian voyaging vessels, links us to the master navigators who populated Polynesia, an astonishing feat. The teamwork required to operate the canoe was a lesson in coalescing diverse abilities to accomplish difficult tasks – much like the emergency department where I usually work. Finally, the teeming atoll reminded me of how the natural world should be and how far we’ve gone astray. Now that I’m back in the “fake world,” as described by a crewmate, I hope to remember these lessons.

In 2012, Hōkūle‘a embarks on a round the world voyage and is seeking more crew. I’m planning to sail a leg. If other physicians are interested, please contact the Polynesian Voyaging Society at pvshawaii@hawaiiantel.net.

Aloha kākou,

Craig Thomas

Photos: Nahaku Kalei